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Mar
27

TIF:Another Back Half Story?

Tiffany (TIF) lowered earnings guidance in each quarter of 2012.

The most recent guide down came when the company posted disappointing holiday comparable sales numbers and suggested fourth-quarter earnings would come in at the low end of the expected range (the low end was $1.35 a share).

Well, EPS came in above that range at $1.40 and management did NOT take down the most recent 2013 guidance of 6-9% earnings growth. The market cheered. Finally, no guide down. But to be fair, the 6-9% growth issued in January was a guide down from the Street’s 15% growth expectation at the time.

Before you celebrate, let’s look a little deeper inside the blue box. First-quarter earnings are expected to decline 15-20%, but don’t worry, growth returns in the second and third quarters. Does any of this sound familiar? When the company had a back-half story last year, it did not pan out.

Fourth-quarter holiday sales were basically in line with the exception of the New York flagship and Asia (both decelerated). Japan got a little better. But let’s look at the two- year comp trend to put things in perspective. Worldwide comps decelerated to 5% on a two-year basis vs. 17% in the third quarter. Americas went from 16% in the third quarter to 1% in the fourth quarter, while Asia went to 19% from 32% (the Flagship New York store went to -1% from 29%). The market that held up best was Japan (went to 6% from 9% two-year comp). But in this market we have to wonder what price adjustments due to a weak yen will do to volumes.

There were plenty of data points to keep expectations low going into the TIF report. Swiss watch exports in February decreased, Swatch has been notably less bullish than is typical, Chow Tai Fook (China’s largest jeweler) comps decreased 7% and in general luxury players have been warning the no gifting trend in China has hurt big-ticket items.

Finally, maybe the biggest relief is not another guide down (if you don’t count the first quarter).


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Mar
27

LULU:Bottom Line Has Changed and I Can See Right Through It

This article was published on the street.com Real Money 3/19
Remember when transparency used to be a good thing? First, monthly sales disappeared and then Macy’s (M), Dick’s Sporting Goods (DKS), Urban Outfitters (URBN) and others stopped breaking out online sales. And now Lululemon Athletica (LULU) has a transparency problem of a different kind.

On Monday, the premium priced yoga retailer announced its Luon women’s bottoms have a transparency defect affecting 17% of the total inventory of its women’s apparel bottoms. Translation: You don’t need that kind of visibility while you are in a downward facing dog position.

The company announced comps were running 11% in the first quarter; however, due to the new product shortage, comps are expected to be closer to 5%-8%. Earnings-per-share (EPS) guidance will be issued on the regularly scheduled earnings call, which is set for Thursday.

While the product malfunction may be a short-term issue, the incident does raise the question of quality and trust. If the consumer starts questioning the quality aspect of the $80-plus exercise pants, will they seek out a cheaper alternative? Or worse, into the arms of competitor Athleta (who similarly priced pants run between $64 and $89)?

Just as we were heading into the fourth-quarter conference call a return to double-digit comps in the first quarter probably would have been met with a sigh of relief. Remember that last quarter LULU broke the streak of issuing guidance for double-digit comp increases (guidance was HSD). And, also as a reminder, the company did not raise the high single-digit comp expectation (raises also typical). Now, the focus on a return to double-digit growth has gone to the dogs.

The next focus for LULU will be damage control. How long will it take to get the product back in stock? More importantly, what damage has been done to the brand? Investors were already questioning how long LULU would be able to maintain its full-price stance when the rest of the retail world is resorting to promotions to drive sales. As a reminder: LULU told the Street in mid-January that less than 2% of its product was marked down pre-holiday. Yes, the LULU customer was still willing to pay full price and that means inventories should be in good shape at the end of the fourth quarter.

The question is what to do with the stock? I own LULU and am most enthusiastic about the European growth trajectory where there is little competition and a long runway. I will look to average down on the news. But for now, the focus will remain on damage control measures.

While the fourth quarter may be intact, the bottom line has changed. And we can see right through it.


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Mar
18

Retailers Jump on Kate’s Baby Bandwagon

A recent panel at Retail Week’s annual conference tackled the topic, “The Kate Effect,” and that got me thinking about which retailers will be riding Kate’s baby’s coattails?

Since the Royal Wedding, every retail brand has been praying for Kate Middleton to grace the streets of London with an outfit, a pair of shoes or even just a fly-by visit.

And no wonder, just look at the brand Reiss. It was a dream came true when Kate hit the White House wearing one of its nude Shola bandage dresses in May 2011. She rivaled First Lady Michelle Obama’s fashion credentials, and the outing made Reiss a known brand outside of the U.K. The brand is now carried at Bloomingdale’s.

Other past Kate favorites include Zara, Whistles & LK Bennett (also now in Bloomingdale’s.) And who could forget the engagement dress from Issa?

The baby is not even here yet and some retailers are already lucking out.

While Kate has been a big supporter of British brands, she has been known to branch out. The Duchess of Cambridge was spotted shopping maternity at the Gap. She reportedly had jeggings on her list, but could not find the correct length.

Gap really could have used the Kate boost as its international business is a growth focus and same-store sales have been in negative territory overseas for some time.

The future Queen is certainly not ignoring her go-to retailers, namely Reiss. Just recently she was spotted at the Kings Road store asking the staff why the retailer doesn’t carry maternity? Ouch. The lost opportunity!
While most brands are not going to rush into a new business line just to throw themselves in Kate’s path for nine months, Topshop is already in the business. Just last week the expectant mother purchased a £37 dress.

Here the shout out goes to Nordstrom, who has Topshop in its U.S. stores already. (And, by the way, don’t think Topshop isn’t going to end up in your U.S. backyard, a minority stake was just sold to a U.S. private equity firm). Thanks Kate!
While Kate is not due until July, let’s consider which U.S. retailers that have exposure in the U.K might be on the baby gift list.

1.Baby Gap (GPS). I know Kate couldn’t find her jeggings, but she is known to be a cash-conscious gal. Baby Gap certainly fits the bill, so will she give the retailer another try?
2.Ralph Lauren (RL). Who could resist a £70 seersucker baby dress? Perfect for racing season this summer. Also very convenient for Kate on Bond Street. Just think, Ralph Lauren could own polo and baby.
3.Topshop Mini. Checks all the boxes: affordable, British, and oh yes, Nordstrom better make sure they get some of that baby stock.
4.We have all heard about Abercrombie’s (ANF) woes in Europe after over expansion. While Abercrombie Kids is on the way in London, the retailer might have to wait a while for the Kate Effect since it has a target age range of about 7. That is ok. Many investors are willing to take a long-term outlook
5.I am betting the royal baby will end up with a pair of UGGs (DECK). After all, we have had snow into March in London, and if you spend as much time as I do here, you would know boots in the summer are more necessary than a bikini.

Disclosure: Widlitz is short shares of Abercrombie and Fitch.


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Mar
15

JCP: 180 is Complete; “Sales” Re-enter Vocabulary

This was published on cnbc.com Feb 28 2013

We have officially passed the one year mark since the transformation to America’s favorite store kicked off and J.C. Penney is worse off than when the company put Ron Johnson at the helm.

After more than one year of being told to “be patient” and that “transformations take time,” investors did not get the anniversary present they expected, and J.C. Penney shares are trading down more than 15 percent before the market’s open.

On the contrary, same-stores sales disappointed for the fourth consecutive quarter — and don’t forget, we are talking some really low bars. Same-store sales for the fourth quarter plunged 31.7 percent, a new low for the year. Just when you thought expectations were low enough? Once again, not even close.

Let’s highlight some cringe-worthy stats: Traffic for the quarter declined 17 percent, worse than the 13 percent decline for the year. Conversion rates, or the rate at which shoppers become buyers, dropped 10 percent, also worse than the annual average of a drop of 9 percent. And gross margins fell 600 basis points as clearance increased to 24 percent of the mix versus 14 percent of the mix last year.

Don’t forget the Internet business sank 34 percent. That is simply hard to believe, especially considering other department stores are reporting 30-percent-plus growth in their ecommerce businesses.

Stats aside, here is the big news: Johnson admits he “made some big mistakes last year.” That’s strange, because in a recent interview with CNBC, Johnson said he would do it much of the same way he had done.

In addition, after burning through mounds of cash, Johnson has come to the realization that his customer prefers a sale (we were previously told the word “sale” was removed from the J.C. Penney dictionary). Really? My Twitter stream could have told you that.

The decision to do away with sales last year had no testing behind it. So it is not a mystery why J.C. Penney has done a 180 in one year when it comes to its promotional stance — just as we suggested last quarter.

Finally, over the past year I have written about “less is more” when it comes to J.C. Penney’s communication with the investment community. Just two weeks ago, Johnson suggested in a CNBC interview that growth will return in 2013. Fast forward two weeks and he said from a recording studio in Plano, Texas, that he doesn’t want to be in the guidance business. No commentary was provided on February trends or growth for the year, and store-in-store results will not be discussed until one year in the mix.

Turns out the year was not a total loss. Johnson learned two things: First, don’t mess with our sales; and second, sometimes less IS more.


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Mar
03

London Retail Flood; This Time No Umbrella Necessary

I have become accustomed to bringing along an umbrella for my typical Saturday store tours in London, but Saturday was ridiculous.

No, it was not raining, but there was plenty of water. There was a flood coming from underground as a water main break burst the flood gates open Saturday afternoon on Regent Street, the epicenter of retail therapy in London. While the length of Regent Street was closed to traffic most of the stores were still open for business and reachable by foot. However the water main break seemed to have a grudge against teen retailers. And the two particular teen retailers that lost a full shopping Saturday this weekend are already swimming upstream against a tough backdrop of sales.

The new Hollister (ticker: ANF) Flagship (opened in May) was closed for business. Several teen employees looked like they were stranded on an island as they surveyed the flowing water from the entrance while remaining inside the store. While it looked like the store was taking on water I put on my wellies and took a tour behind police lines with the London Fire Brigade and found out otherwise. The good news is the LFB was able to divert most of the water flowing down Regent Street toward Piccadilly. As a result, none of the stores were taking on water as of 5pm. However, the water was still flowing as engineers continued to isolate the “off valve”.

The other store most directly affected by the water was also a teen retailer: Superdry. Pretty ironic huh? No terrible jokes to follow.

While so far there is no risk to inventory or store structures this is not the way to start off the Spring shopping season.

Update: Stores re-opened Sunday March 3


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